VJ 311


While I think, and have declaimed here, that a single vineyard/single grape variety is a near-surety for a good wine, I am also continuously seduced by a combination of unusual/minor grape varieties. So I automatically bought, at a reasonable price, the 2013 Hunky Dory, a brand I hadn't seen before, Marlborough Pinot Gris, Gerwertztraminer and Riesling – suitably sub-labelled The Tangle – and made by the Allan family. The idea of tangle is picked up in the motif of the label: a silhouette of a sleeping fisherperson, in a boat on a blue sea background. The wine had a lovely taste in the mouth: a sweetness, savoury and musk: a savoury musk stick. The palate followed in a similar fashion to the perfume of this 'light-white' coloured wine.


I have always sought out a pink Pinot Gris/Grigio since I tasted a Tasmanian one many years ago – 2010 – in the then newly opened National Wine Centre of Australia, Adelaide. It's like pursuing a dream, a spectre, a trace. One of my faves is Tar and roses Pinot Grigio. But the 2015 has changed on the palate, while still being a pale bronze, salmon rose, apricot pink, orange hinted extraordinary colour. The colour puce might smell like this wine: honey/mead and marshmallow. The honey/mead is repeated on the palate. It's drier than former years and my sister always thought it a little sweet. But it has become acidic, with some tannin, like an unripe tangerine or salted butterscotch/caramel. (Perhaps the winemakers, Don Lewis and Narelle King, are trying to match the wine with this latest craze = salted everything-formerly-sweet. On a trip to Adelaide we discovered a terrific – distinctively open and fresh – pink-tinged, easily priced 2013 Glen Ewin, Adelaide Hills, Pinot Gris. But I cannot find much info on it easily: it has slipped away, again, like a ghost imagined. 


A recent oddity is a pink Sav Blanc, the 2014 Toi Toi Marlbourough Hidden Treasure Pink Sauvignon. A small amount of Pinot Noir wine was added to create the hue. Its perfume is a fairy-floss, with a base of grass as in a traditional Sav Blanc. Its colour is a traditional Rosé dark salmon pink. On the palate – well it's confusing: savoury toast and wheat. 

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